Over the Mts to Akaroa

Drove over Arthur's Pass, craggy mts and flat gravel plains, and then down to the East coast. I arrived in Christchurch, only to feel that I couldn't survive a Sat. night in the city. Drove on through the tunnel to Lyttleton, the port town. Cute, but decided to go on up into the hills to see the sunset and get to Akaroa. If I'd known how far it would be, I would have stayed put.

I arrived in Akaroa, a French-colonial coastal town. Unfortunately it was dark, and I felt tired, grumpy, whiny, and alone. Every sign I saw on the hotels said "NO vacancy." Aaargh. Oh the joy of traveling. In the next minute I walked into Chez la Mer, to find a gracious host, a fire place, a conversation with a fellow sailor, and invitation to join her on the Fox II the next day. And a soft bed with a hot water bottle to comfort me. Ahhh.

Next day, I wander thru the streets all posted in French! Very quaint. All the amenities: many cafes, kayaking co., a tiny movie theater, a yacht club, an old traditional boat to sail. The lighthouse sits shiny white far from the headland it used to perch on.

Aboard the Fox, they take us out into the bay, where it is obvious we are sailing in the ancient caldera of a volcano! South we leave the relative shelter, navigating out through the headlands where the ocean broke thru the side of the old cone. There, the extremely rare Hector's dolphins played alongside us in the waves.

The wind picked up to almost a gale. Motoring back against the wind and slop, most of the passengers got wet. I ducked into the wheelhouse to chat to crew and captain as he took us past seal and then 'shag' colonies on the rocks. (The latter still makes me giggle, the Kiwi word for the birds, cormorants.)

After, I dashed up the hill to catch the "Giant's House" before it closed. The artist created gorgeous mosaic figures in her gardens! Sailing and whimsical art all in one day!

Wild Foods Fest Hokitika--Mar14

I ate huhu grubs! Blech. Next to the booth, a guy was hatcheting rotten logs and picking them out. Very fresh. Decided against raw, or chocolate coated, and had the cooked. Sure, it tastes like peanut butter, but the texture ain't right. The thicker skin suddenly burst, squirting the guts out in my mouth. My stomach twisted.

I almost puked up the worms, eel and kava kava that I'd already had that morning...

Honest, some of it was really tasty. ( The worms were in a bon bon.) And the colostrum mousse delicious. Couldn't bring myself to eat prairie oysters or lamb tails.

Friday the 13th of March

Superstitious people might say it's an unlucky day, but I usually really like my Friday-the-13th's. Drove to the glaciers south of Hokitika. Wasn't convinced it would be anything much, but went anyway. So glad I did!

Franz Josef for brunch, whitebait for lunch, and Fox for dessert (with Aoraki/Mt. Cook in the background)! The glaciers are all the more stunning for how close they are to the sea. And for a bunch of ice they move fast, sliding down the steep valleys they fill. Just totally reaffirmed my love of big rocks, this country has a real spine. Not a fan of flat, marshy areas of the world.

Wild West Coast NZ

Mar. 12-- After Nelson, I rented a car and drove down the west coast of the South Island. Buller Gorge was stunning. Stopped at Lyell, to look around at a park/reststop that used to be a gold miners town. Now it's gone. Just some edu-ma-kashun-el signs, showing there used to be buildings on a muddy road, that is now a paved highway.

Next stop was Westport, nothing there but a stop at the grocery. On the way back to the main road (Hwy 6), I spotted the hitchhiker I'd seen on the way in. The young guy was now getting out of car that had given him only a 5-km ride to the turn off.

He'd obviously been hiking, his huge muddy boots were tied to the outside of hs pack, and his feet were bare. I stopped. He was from Nelson, just finished the Heaphy Track, and going to Hokitika to see his parents. I said I'd give him a lift as far as Punakaiki. And off we went.

I was glad to have the company, as the radio wasn't functioning out in the boondooks and I had no CDs with me.

At Punakaiki, we stopped. I promised I'd pick him up again, if he didn't catch a ride before my return from a short walk in the park. And he went to stand at the side of the road. I didn't see him again, even though I looked on the roadside and later in Hokitika.

The pancake rocks at Punakaiki stack themselves up like, well... a stack of pancakes. Craggy pinnacles, some topped with flax, a rock bridge that still supports tourists, all being crashed into by huge waves.


Drove on to Greymouth, looped through town a couple times, but it was getting to be late afternoon and shops were closed. This is supposedly the "wild west" of New Zealand, the last frontier they had, and it has that feel: late-1800s buildings, the saloon on the corner, all supported by resource extraction (they had gold fields along the coast), just lacking the tumbleweeds of the American west.



Coming into Hokitika, had to cross two one-lane bridge (no biggie, there's tons of those) that were also the railway bridges!! Ack. Decided to spend the night at a hostel there, as I felt too nervous to just go out and camp by myself. Seems a luxury, a room to myself (though it had a bunkbed, was all mine).


Went to the movie "Vicky Christina Barcelona" at the little theater, a heritage bldg made into a single room movie house, with a wine bar, and packed with comfy couches. Not to worry about getting a good seat.The owner/ticket taker/server let me in, and it was almost just me, until a woman showed up at last minute.

Nelson, South Island

Not to be confused with Nelson, BC, which is far inland. Definitely a funky small town, galleries, art and nearby, Abel Tasman track.

Made it out to go 'tramping' (kiwi for hiking). Took a bus up to Takaka, to see the biggest fresh spring in Australasia (or some such claim), truly clear clear water. Cycled the last few miles from the hostel. Butt sure sore next day. That night almost full moon, crazy gusty weather and as dark clouds rolled in bringing rain on one side of valley, could see a moon 'rainbow' in the dark over the town! First I'd ever even heard of one. Of course no camera so can't prove it.

From there, bussed to north end of Abel T park at Totaranui, and took water taxi along coast. Gorgeous rocky area. Dropped off on beach to hike from Bark bay to Torrent Bay. A couple hours on easy track, nothing too taxing. Even without a huge pack I'm a bit slow, but stopped to take lots of photos. Then another water taxi to Coquille Bay to hike the last stretch into Marahau, and the bus back to Nelson.

There was so little bird song. Hoped it was only because of the helicopters, power boats, kayakers, and crowds drowning them out, not that they didn't exist. To think that Joseph Banks on his trip to NZ commented that the bird song filled the air, and now there are so few birds.

Met some great people while in Nelson area: My hosts, Kaye and Jim McNabb, Milo and his family from the boat show, John Moore and Woodi. Hope to make it back and explore somemore another time, but had to move on.

See more photos at:

Mar 7-8 Rotoiti Lake Classic Boat Show

Fantastic. Gorgeous boats, stunning setting on a lake in the mountains south of Nelson. This Classic Boat Show is in it's tenth year with over a 180 boats participating! Wood, fiberglass, aluminum. Sail, oars, steam, V-6 and, jet engines. Even a dessert-spoon powered bicycle on pontoon floats! Old as 1905, Otira, a Logan launch to young Bootlegger, finished just before the show.

The highlight for me being, I got to be a guest judge. For all the mass of different types of boats at the show, picking only 5 boats as winners seemed impossible: Power, Non-power, Jetboat, Originally Row (could now have engine), and Overall Winner. Luckily, I had the help of John Moore who has judged the show every year since it began and his wife, Woodi.

The criteria for judgement leaned towards effort and story, rather than fancy bling, though I admit the eventual overall winner had some amazing brightwork. Other than a list of boats that won recently, that we would not be choosing again, I could choose any boat to shortlist in a category. I wandered anonymously through the crowds, listening to owners' talk about their boats.

With shortlist in hand, we met at the waterfront as the boats were launched to discuss, and see how they looked in the water. Each type of boat competed in short races on a course close to shore, so the spectators could cheer them on! Our shortlists, got altered some and then even shorter. And it wasn't necessarily the fastest boats that won the prizes. We chose one of the slowest jetboats to win the trophy.

Finally, winners chosen, I got to do what I love most: sail. In a short sailing course, I steered and the boat owner and my host Jim McNabb, hauled the jib sheets calling the tacks of his Idle Along called Idle Hours. I think we came 6th or so. Have to say I was more focused on not breaking anything than race placement. Was great fun, if a bit gusty.

At the awards ceremony that night, each of winners got a bottle of wine from the main sponsor, Seresin Estates and a trophy. The overall winner being a cup made by Jens Hansen (jeweller of Lord of the Rings fame).

Back into Nelson, I stayed on at Jim and Kaye's house while they went on well-deserved holiday.

photos at:

Wellington and Kiwis

A lovely capital city, tucked in a bowl of hills on a harbour. Reminds me of Victoria, BC a bit. Would be great to go to the University here, almost same name as the one I went to, Victoria University (but 'of Wellington' added at end here.) The clouds are scudding by overhead, and out on the bay is supposedly gusting 35kts! Sun sinking behind the hills to the west.


Got to see Rogue the inspiration for the article I'm writing. Sweet looking Bailey-built sailboat from 1892. Will be a while yet before she is launched again, but quite a lot is done.


Had a great last couple days: finally saw a KIWI! Easy enough to find the kiwis (nickname for New Zealanders) and eat kiwi (fruits). Much harder to find the fluffy ball of feathers that is a bird which only wanders about at night. Had to resort to a bird sanctuary with an aviary that replicates nocturnal habitat. (I assume they turn the lights on at night so the kiwis will get some sleep.)


Took in some of the sights: Te Papa museum, cable car, botanical gardens, astronomic observatory, driving the coastline, at a lookout the wind blowing the sweet smell of fennel up the hill to me.

Apparently, Peter Jackson is a bit of a steamroller in this tiny city. Did see the hulk of the boat that he used for King Kong, now there's a movie that ran an hour too long.

photos at http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=81966&id=593011976&l=3c82e

I better get back to work.

Train south...

Okay it was a couple days ago. Still... here's the update.

I love trains! If there is a revolution, I want to join the one that brings back the era of train travels. Clickety-clack over the rails!!...

And gorgeous scenery thrown in between the towns: bridges over gorges, tall trees, mountain ranges, volcanoes (inc. the starring mt. in Lord of the Rings, Mt. Doom, also known as Mt. Ngauruhoe).

In the actual town, the tracks usually go through the industrial backside, blech. But on occasion, the train stops at quaint stations or near something obviously designed to entertain the passengers aboard. See photo!




First stop: Waitomo Caves.
I had to see the glow worms. Some people come to New Zealand for the bird life, or adventure sports, or maori culture, but no, my highlight is some larvae stuck to a damp cave ceiling. They're fantastic. Makes the 14 hour plane ride well worth it! Seriously, I'll do some of that other stuff too, but how often does one get to see something truly unique in the world: a cave vault above the tour boat that looked like a sky of blue stars. I stayed overnight, not in the cave.

Next morning I caught the train again, on the 9-hour journey the rest of the way. We had one leg-stretching stop, where I got out to stare across the plains at the volcano, Mt. Ngauruhoe. Everyone else crowded into the small cafe, because the train had run out of most of it's fare. I should have followed, the change-over crew aboard, didn't open the food counter again until 3pm. Not like I'll starve, suppose it's my own fault for not thinking to pack a lunch.


Weird to see that so many of the "pest" plants here in New Zealand are similar to BC: gorse, and Scotch broom with the yellow flowers out now, thistles with their purple flowers and nasty spines almost as bad as gorse, and morning glory vines.

The last stretch into Wellington with the beach on the west side of the train was striking, steep cliffs, rocky shore with waves breaking. Into town, easily found friend's house (aren't taxis great for that) and I'm still here.

photos at:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=81949&id=593011976&l=33be0

Northland and Bay of Islands

Went to have a look up north of Auckland. Rented a car and drove out, managing to stay on the other side of the road. Definitely not instinctive. Lovely pastoral countryside, must say reminded me of California, but luckily without the hordes of Americans. And then suddenly there will be stands of those prehistoric tree ferns. Very cool. Was almost an hour out of the city before I actually saw my first sheep here.

After the main freeway became a crazy two lane, and often one lane over bridges, windy roads they call highways. Went to Bay of Islands. Stayed in Paihia and took ferry over to town called Russell now, used to be known as the "Hell Hole of the Pacific." All those naughty sailors, drinking and carrying on. Now it's cute as a bug, with a funky tall ship, the Tucker.

I couldn't find anything fun to do, so instead I lost the keys to my rental car, and walked around the whole town a second time retracing my steps sweating in the heat, an extra ferry ride and three hours later only to find that I left them sticking out of the lock in the car. Not only was the car still there, but I didn't have a parking ticket either! I think I love this country.

Went to Waitanga Treaty grounds to see where the Maori signed some mistranslated document, that the Brits wrote out. Still lots of controversy over it, but they did much better than the First Nations in Canada. Very cool war canoe on site.

Drove on to the northern cape of Reinga to see the famous Maori tree where the souls head off from. Pacific meeting Tasman Sea was calm that day. Sunny and stunning views. Then found the giant sand dunes! Weird to be in some of these places all alone. School is back in session so no one is around. Skidded on my butt down a couple steep spots Would have been better on a sled or skis.

Driving in the dark just isn't done. Hit some cute fuzzy tailed thing and almost smeared some hedgehogs. Worried that I was contributing to the extinction of a species. Luckily it seems most little creatures are imports and the New Zealander I talked to about it said it would be best to swerve and HIT as many as possible: possums, hedgehogs, rabbits, all of them need to be exterminated. Kiwi birds are so rare that probably will never see them on the road. Camped in car near Rangiahua, and Lake Omapere. Creek nearby, and fab stars at night, that I have no idea what they are.

Next day saw the kauri trees. Good grief they are huge. Not in the way that redwoods are huge, but like elephant legs, with no taper to the trunk. Straight up massive, and then the branches way up the top flare out from there. And the museum reminds me of BC, all that logging equipment, and before they knew it, the country was almost completely stripped of these trees. Not even the stumps left, because most of it's farmland now.

Right, for photos, check on facebook.

Bay of Islands www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=80382&id=593011976&l=5e891

Cape Reinga www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=80397&id=593011976&l=3215f

big Kauri trees www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=80393&id=593011976&l=62756

Gotta get moving here.

New Zealand

Started my trip in Auckland for the Classic yacht Assoc. Regatta. Some fantastic old boats! Many of them over a hundred years old built by the famous yards of Bailey or Logan.

Anyway if you decide to come down here and look around, you won't be disappointed for the amazing emphasis on sailing boats! Everyone sails it seems. But make sure you have an onward flight or they won't let you in. There I was at midnight in the airport with my laptop, zipping on the internet to find a OW ticket back out to Australia, so they would give me back my passport, and let me get to the hostel to sleep!! Eventually got to the Brown Kiwi Backpackers in Ponsonby, good friendly place and close enough to city to walk to the regatta area in the Viaduct Harbor.

This year the harbour was taken up by the Louis Vuitton Pacific Series, as in the pre-races to the America's Cup. So bit crowded on the docks. Rubbing shoulders with the big boys. Amazing to see the progress evident in sailing technology on that one wharf, from 1880 boat the Jessie Logan owned by NZ yachting historian, Harold Kidd to the massive Cup challenger boats both Swiss Alinghi and NZ Emirites also docked there. Quite the raucous party when NZ won.

In the Classics regatta, crazy winds the first day. And still they raced. (The LV Cup shut down.) Great to see the Kiwi built Ragtime, now homeport in Hawaii, come to compete in the race. And many Australian sailors coming over just to be crew aboard the historic boats. Spent last day zipping around in a historic launch, Lady Gay taking photos of the sailboats. Gorgeous.

Then off to northland...

Sticky-Beak vs. Sticky Date Pudding

In Australia, a "sticky-beak" is slang for someone with a long nose poking into everyone else's business. And has absolutely nothing to do with "sticky date pudding", which is actually a cake, but you could snort it out your nose if you eat it too fast.

Auzzies and Kiwis call desserts "pudding", regardless if it's actual pudding or not; a bowl of fruit, pie, chocolate, whatever. I include the recipe here below, because it's damn good "pudding" but do pour LOTS of the caramel sauce on it if you make it.

If you're feeling sticky-beak, and wondering what's going on with me, I'll add more in here about my travels in a minute.


STICKY DATE PUDDING

INGREDIENTS:
1/2 cup Butter, room temperature cut into eight pieces
Plus extra to butter pan
1 1/4 cup Chopped pitted dates
1 teaspoon Baking soda
1/4 cup Granulated sugar
2 Eggs
1 1/4 cup All purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon Salt
1/2 teaspoon Vanilla1
3/4 teaspoon Baking powder

***CARAMEL SAUCE***
1/2 cup Butter
1/4 cup Whipping cream
1/2 cup Firm packed brown sugar
plus 1 tablespoon Firm packed brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon Vanilla

DIRECTIONS:
TO PREPARE CAKE: Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Butter a 9-inch round baking pan with sides at least 2 inches high, such as a springform pan. Place the dates in a saucepan and cover with water (about 1-1/2 cups). Bring to a boil, reduce to simmer and cook for 3 minutes. Add the baking soda (the mixture will foam) and set aside. In a bowl, cream the cut up butter, sugar and eggs, adding the eggs one at a time. Gently mix in the flour, salt and vanilla. Slowly stir in the baking powder and 1/4 cup of the liquid from cooking the dates, until the cake mixture resembles thick pancake batter. Drain off remainder of date cooking liquid and discard. Stir in the dates. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until cooked in the center.

TO PREPARE CARAMEL SAUCE: Combine the butter, whipping cream, brown sugar and vanilla. Bring to a boil; reduce to simmer, and cook for 3 minutes.

TO SERVE: Drizzle some of the sauce over the cake as it is cooling. Serve the rest of the sauce separately. Hell glop it on, it's yummy yummy, though probably up's the calorie count a little.

Per Serving: Calories: 384 (4% protein, 47% carbohydrate, 50% fat) Protein: 4 grams Fat: 22 grams Cholesterol: 100 mg Carbohydrate: 46 grams Sodium: 441 mg Exchanges: 1 fruit, 1-1/2 starch, 4-1/2 fat

Back Down Under

Seems I've abandoned this poor little blog all to itself for so long. Thought that as I'm traveling, I'll take another swipe at it.

I'm in Sydney again. As in with a "Y" and in Australia. (Not to be confused with the small town of Sidney, Canada, where my Dad lives.)

The bush fires are no where near me so not to worry. Currently staying with my friend Ali, at her place in French's Forest. And she is in a forest, right on the edge of the reserve, with the kookaburras giggling in the trees.

I leave tomorrow night for New Zealand!
I'm heading to do research on some gorgeous old wooden sailing boats, and if all goes well, WoodenBoat magazine will be publishing my article about triple-plank construction of these 100 year old beauties.

More as I go. I'm just so excited to be here this time.

Hope all goes well with you.
Hugs